After running the 3.6 for most of the summer, the venerable 3.4 was reinstalled with TWM intake stacks and Electromotive TEC-I fuel/spark management.  Dyno showed 230 at the wheel, which is a bit shy of 300 HP, depending on drive train losses.  It's a few more than the 3.6 motors make with Cyntex chips, but dang close.  A lot of work for that kind of power!  Compression is a mild 10.3:1 and it runs on fairly mild cams on pump gas.

2001 was a messy year.  The car had no less than SIX motor swaps.  Why is at the bottom, but this was writtena s a running commentary and reading it six years later beings up some inconsistancies. Oh well, enjoy!

The fan and valve covers were powder coated blue clear over bare aluminium.

On the bottom TRG 1-7/8" headers are used with stainless Supertrapps.
 

Note the slip fit header collectors.  This allows the header pipes to expand without putting stresses on the heads.  We recommend this on all headers 1-3/4" and up.  It's about a $40 option.  These headers were also coated in house, though we often use Jet Hot.

Custom fabricated tubular bracket to hold Supertrapps.

Nothing exciting, just the lambda sensor mount.

Interior got a grey paint job and a new Kirkey Road Race seat.  Very comfortable.  Lost the passenger seat.

Up front a 100 ltr. ATL fuel cell was installed.  Once brackets were made up and riveted to the cell it was an easy install.  Would have been nice for them to do that part.  If I were a better welder I'd TIG it but I am not that brave as of yet.

The car also got a new TRG RSR front suspension to make things a bit more stable.  When I took it apart I found the car still had the factory rubber bushings!  Pretty scary.  Brakes are big-red of our own design all around.
 
 

The ATL cell has a nice trapped sump.  Seems to work well and it's a few hundred dollars cheaper than the Fuel Safe.  Fit and finish, however, are not nearly as good so it's a trade-off.  I'm planning on adding a front ABS plate across the bottom to improve aerodynamics.

Here's a shot of the brake ducting.  I finally just ran the sway bar drop link through it.  Seems to work!

March 2001.
Installed a 3.6 motor I had lying around. The install took less than FOUR hours including the conversion!  Then I decided I needed a new front suspension.   I upgraded to TRG sway bars from the old klunker weltmeisters, and went to the RSR front suspension.  The RSR front suspension allows for huge amounts of camber and caster.  Right now I'm at 3 degrees negative with 5.5 degrees caster and I can add another three degrees without even touching the a-arms.

April 2001
Took it to VIR and had clutch problems - a bolt wedged itself over the pedal so it would not fully engage!  Of course I found this out only after I got back home.  Also had a major oil leak.  Replaced the valve cover gaskets and it still leaked.  Replaced the right cam-tower to cam box seal and it seemed fine.

June 2001
Took it to Summit Point.  Ran OK.   Oil leaks galore.  Finally gave up.  Came home and pulled the motor, replaced the left cam tower seals and it was dry.  OK so this was the THIRD engine install this season.

July 2001
Changed over to the 3.4.  Installed the 3.4 motor.  Decided to upgrade to TWM injection from Weber 46mms.  After a horrendous amount of wiring, I was amazed to get it running, albeit not very well.  If you are counting this is the FOURTH engine install.

Took it up to Cyntex and Paul dyno tuned the electromotive unit. It made a tad shy of 230 to the wheels.  Not bad.  Not great.  A lot less than I had anticipated.

Took the car to Pocono for a one day event with Shattenbaum.   Had problems with the wiring.  Fixed that and it still cut out.  Took it home and rewired it.  Then I took it to summit point with Potomac.  Problems with the engine cutting out and misfiring.  Checked all the wiring and it seemed OK but still the car sputtered.  I then decided it MUST be the injection so I put the 3.6 back in.  Swap number FIVE.  Luckily I had left all the 3.6 wiring in!

Off to Watkins Glen with Potomac in July.  Car ran well, but occasionally cut out.  I decided it MUST be the fuel tank or lines.  No luck.  Checked the wiring.  No luck again.

August 2001
back tot he Glen with Reisentoter.  Car ran well for the first two days but then began cutting out.  AGAIN.  Replaced the fuel pump at the track.  This had no effect. Changed over to a fuel cell in late august and replaced all lines between the cell and the tunnel, since some looked not so great..

September 2001.
Took it to VIR.  Cuts out immediately.  You get one full throttle run, then it cuts out on the next acceleration run.  It has gone from random to predictable.  Changed out the wiring harness, flywheel sensors, air flow meter, DME, etc. etc. at the track.  Still it has now gotten so repeatable that you can't even get it to run through the revs twice in the pits.  OK.  So it's not the motor.  It's not the wiring (we know this because we stole the entire harness and all sesnors and out them on Lydia's car).

Never did get it running.

October 2001.  Sold the engine from the Blaucarrera due to a club member that screwed me on a motor I was buying.  Not only that but we ripped all the wiring out of the car anyway to get Lydia's car running at VIR.  Great reason to pull the motor from the Tealamonstre and put it in the Blaucarrera.  SO the tealamonstre gets the 3.4 again.

While doing this i noticed the plastic porsche fuel line over rthe trans mount (hidden when the engine/trans is installed) is crimped.  Folded over like an old straw.  This makes perfect sense!  The fuel system will fill and run one run, as the pressure drops off.  The it emptied making a second run impossible until it refills slowly.  I ran a braided fuel line from the pump directly to the fuel filter.  Hopefully this will fix the problem.  We shall see.

So I installed the motor and rewiring the entire install.  I lengthened and soldered most of the sensor wires.  Re did all power feeds, and installed relays for the fuel pump, injectors, and coil packs.  First the fuel pump relay was stuck on all the time.  Then the coil pack relay was stcuck off all the time.  Guess it's a bad idea to use Radio Shack automotive relays.  I'm planning on rewiring it again using a stock 993 DME relay setup.  Life in hell.

March 2002 :  This is an excerpt form a posting on Rennlist.
Why I love ATL

OK.  So early in the summer I was having problems with fuel pickup on my SC based "tealamonstre".  Some of you may have read the tale of woe which included swapping two different engine and injection systems out no less than seven times. See:

http://instant-g.com/Cars/Teala/Upgrades2001/index.html

 
Early in the campaign I installed an ATL911 Specific 100Ltr. fuel cell.  I had also eventually replaced all lines, the fuel pump twice, and various and sundry other components.
 
The engines had little in common, one being an electromotive managed 3.4 with TWM stacks, the other a relatively stock 3.6.  Only the ignition switch hot feed, fuel lines to and from the tank, and fuel pump were in common.
 
Last fall at VIR the car would run strong, for about 10 seconds, then shut down, but only under 1/2 to full throttle or more.  I did find crimped fuel hose, which explained this, so I though all was right with the world.
 
Wrong.
 
At Summit Point earlier this month the car experience intermittent power loss.  IT would run in one of three modes:
 
1) Holy crap, this thing is running good
2) Hmmn.  How come I can't make any progress on that SC
3) Flat, barely running, but smooth idle.  Falls on it's face over about 1/4 throttle.
 
I got it to the point where it would go into Mode 3 in wagon bend, a quick uphill left, done under throttle it would cut out somewhere near track out (very comforting).  I installed a series of LEDs, one to the fuel pump feed, one to the coil pack feed, and one to the fuel injector feed, then hooked a voltmeter to each so I could watch their progress on track (real interesting in turn 3 with the power cutting out!)
 
Nothing.  All stayed on, with no change in voltage.  I also swapped out the fuel pump with a new until which made the same loud noise the existing 3 month old unit did ()factory 964 pump).
 
The injection system has a separate adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with liquid filled gauge, always reading 50 PSI with the ignition switched on.  The car had about 15 gallons of fuel in it.
 
No luck, and the weather went to hell Sunday so I put it in the trailer and went home.
 
Last Friday I pushed it out of the trailer and it sat at maybe a 10 degree angle to horizontal, with the right side lower then the left. It would not start.
 
The fuel pressure SLOWLY crept up to 20PSI and that was it.  Viola!  Something repeatable!  No time to mess with it but I had something.

Yesterday after work I pushed the car to a level spot.  After some coaxing, and three ignition cycles (each runs the pump for seven seconds)  the fuel pressure gauge slowly crept up to about 45PSI and I was able to start the car.

I pulled it into the garage and went for the fuel cell.  My first assumption was that hey had mis-labeled the vent and return and feed.  Wrong.  I slowly pulled off the cover, and snaked the feed line out.  It had a sock filter on it which had some darkening in it, but was by no means clogged.  What the hell?

So I then removed all the foam from the cell.  This cell had a sump in the bottom.  No problems. Nothing floating in the cell.

Then I looked at the center piece of foam.  There was a perfect outline of the fuel line and the sock in it.  Picture is attached.

The fuel filter/inlet was then located at the front of the cell, about 8” off the bottom of the cell.  From the looks of it you’d need about 15 gallons of fuel to fully immerse it.  Just about how much I had initially put in.

The foam has a hole in it for the feed line, but the line was not even remotely put through it. It was sandwiched between two blocks of foam.  MORONS.

Note that the block above starts 2" off the floor of the cell due to the integral sump.

Hopefully the car will run well now.  I reassembled the cell with a Porsche screened inlet from an SC on the end of the hose, in the bottom of the cell.

I just got off the phone with ATL. Dave Dack, VP sales talked to me and seemed after a long explanation seemed genuinely concerned.  I also told him about the burned valve on the 3.6 which had occurred over the summer.

I asked him about the "Black Box" integral surge tank and fuel pump.  I told him I was interested in that to make absolutely certain the problem would not resurface.  He offered me the $385 retail unit for about $44 below wholesale, a bit more than 1/2 the retail price. Although disappointed at this meager token I ordered it anyway.  Quite honestly had it been me I would have given it to the customer, considering all the pain and aggravation I have been through, but what can I say.
 

Dr. Steven J. Timmins
www.instant-g.com

..

Still later I called them (ATL) up and sent them more photos and pointed them to my Rennlist post.  ATL then offered to send me a free "Black Box" for my cell.  After a month they didn't.  They then told me that they would do so, but only iof I returned the entire fuel cell so they could examine it.  That went back for a month or so.  I finally gave up.  Never never never will I deal with ATL again or buy their product!